Among Other Things

By Paul Fugleberg

The original $240 million estimate for reconstruction of the Going to the Sun Road in Glacier National Park has now escalated to $270 million. No doubt the cost will end up several million more by the time the project is completed in the next eight to 10 years.

Cost of the completed original road was a mere $3 million.

In the early 1900s, laymen proclaimed the project "impossible." Today, engineers say it posed a tremendous challenge for the times. And it was that. The 51-mile route of twisting, turning, climbing, descending road in spots appears to be literally stuck onto the face of the mountains.

It's fun to let the mind wander through an imaginary time tunnel to the summer of 1910 with its devastating forest fires, choking smoke and heavy ash fall. That's when the idea of a trans-mountain road was conceived by Major William R. Logan, Glacier's first superintendent. He knew it would be difficult.

Hazards included steep terrain, rock falls, adverse weather, short building seasons, huge snowdrifts — even wild animals. Steam shovels had to clear snowdrifts.

Logan persuaded Congress to appropriate $69,200 to construct the first two and a half miles of the westernmost stretch. The initial phase was implemented in 1911. On Sept. 10 of that year the first auto caravan carried more than 200 persons into the park from Belton (West Glacier) to Apgar at the foot of Lake McDonald. By Sept. 30, the road sported new macadam surface.

Some 4,000 persons signed the Apgar guest register that year and Glacier National Park was on its way to becoming Montana's top tourist attraction.

At Yellowstone National Park in mid-September 1911, Major Logan told fellow park superintendents that he wanted to develop Glacier "as rapidly as possible … keeping in mind the future day … when the American traveling public will at least realize the beauties of their own country."

Sadly, Major Logan would not see his vision become reality. He died in February 1912. But his dream and memory live on. Two prominent landmarks are named for him — Logan Creek and Logan Pass, the 6,664 ft. summit of Going to the Sun Road.

The road was a long time a buildin'. Major construction began in the 1920s. Hardest portions — the steep-sloped Garden Wall and the west and east end tunnels — were done relatively late in the project.

The Garden Wall road work was done from 1925 to 1928 and the Piegan tunnel on the east side of Logan Pass was completed in the fall of 1932.

The Flathead Courier of Polson, in its July 20, 1933, issue, described some of the obstacles:

"… Moving along the trail laboriously hacked out of solid rock, workmen dangled on ropes, 1,000 feet above the valley floor, carving footholds in sheer walls to blast a 400-ft. tunnel through Mt. Piegan. Equipment and supplies were packed by horse along a narrow trail and then transferred to backs of men who carried them along a thready footpath and down a dangling 100-ft. ladder to drillers." Tunnel sections alone required removal of 552,822 cubic yards of rock. Many workmen, subject to dangerous falling rocks, wore their own version of today's "hard hats" — surplus World War I battle helmets.

Despite the dangers, only one fatality was recorded — a foreman lost his handhold on a rope and fell 60 feet to his death.

Among sub-contractors were 16 Russian nationals. During the final phases of construction, they worked from the top of Logan Pass westward to meet crews working their way up the mountain.

The Russians had their own pack string of 20-25 horses, their own camp and cook tent. Their food was of higher quality than the average road camp meals. One visitor proclaimed to Russians' raisin pie was the "best I'd ever eaten."

The bulk of the Russians' work was hand-done. With wheelbarrows, pick axes and shovels, they averaged about 10 feet per day. They did much of the high country blasting. These drillers worked almost continuously preparing holes for black powder charges. Explosions reverberated like thunder through the park late at night all summer long.

Some 5,000 persons attended a formal dedication ceremony atop Logan Pass July 15, 1933. Among dignitaries present was Kootenai Chief Koostahtah. Governor Frank Cooney told the gathering the new route "was a priceless gift to all people of the country and all nations whose citizens come this way to view the scenic wonders it reveals."

Actually, Going to the Sun Road was the second route to cross the northern Montana Rockies. In 1930, the Roosevelt Highway, U.S. 2, was completed. Prior to that, motorists had to drive at least 100 miles north or south of U.S. 2 to cross the mountains. Or they could have their cars ferried across the summit by Great Northern flatcar for $12.50. Automobile occupants, however, had to travel in GN railroad coaches.

Even at today's prices, most folks who have traveled the Going to the Sun Road will tell you that it's worth it for priceless pleasures and treasured memories.