Polson plays host to Montana wine convention

While Montana has long boasted a storied drinking culture, local fermentation enthusiasts are seeking to add yet another layer to the state’s repertoire by establishing a wine industry in the Big Sky state.

Inspired by recent advancements in cold-hardy grape varieties, this movement came to Polson last week with the Montana Grape and Winery Association holding its spring conference at the KwaTaqNuk Resort.

The three-day symposium featured presentations from experts on all elements of viticulture, from pruning plants to evaluating the final product.

“It’s a new industry,” winemaker Dan Murphy said. “I think it’s going to explode in 10 years time and triple in size.”

Such potential prompted Murphy to recently leave his mobile wine bottling company in California and open a vineyard in his hometown of Columbia Falls. Murphy said the favorable climate surrounding Flathead Lake provides growers with the opportunity to experiment with the unique qualities afforded by cold-tolerant grapes such as the Somerset and Marquette varieties.

This local flair was put to the test by judge Caressa Bailey Sacks of Big Sky Wine and Spirits Academy, who tasted some of the first batches produced at Murphy’s White Raven Winery.

While sampling a glass of white wine made from Somerset grapes, Sacks asked Murphy if he aged his product in wooden barrels due to its range of distinct flavors.

To Sacks’ surprise, Murphy said he did not, attributing his wine’s complexity to the intricate fermentation process.

“We could all make wines from the exact same grapes,” he said, pointing to the dozens of vintners surrounding the tasting table. “And they would all taste different.”

Polson resident Larry Robertson is looking to take advantage of the unique attributes Montana wine has to offer.

A soil conservationist by trade, Robertson has become one of the most outspoken advocates of the state’s grape growing potential.

Robertson said the combination of Montana’s arid climate, long summer days and cold nights create the perfect conditions for “stressing” grapes. These factors accelerate the fruit’s ripening period and produce smaller berries, which contain more flavor-enhancing skin.

Spreading this message at wine conventions across the country, Robertson said he has gained the moniker of “one arrogant bastard,” which in turn inspired the name of the winery he is developing from the basement of his Polson home.

While Robertson admits he might have to tweak the name to avoid copywrite issues (Stone Brewing of California rose to prominence through their “Arrogant Bastard Ale”), Robertson said his unique steaming process adds unique color and flavor qualities to his wine.

Although the future looks bright, Robertson said the main factor holding Montana winemakers back at the moment is a lack of grape production.

Another element involves the amount of overhead required to create a winery. Unlike a brewery, which can start selling beer within several months of opening, wineries must wait at least a year before selling their product.

For Dan Murphy of White Raven Winery, however, the wait is worth it.

As he works to establish his business, Murphy said he remains mindful of market trends. New wine drinkers, he said, tend to favor slightly sweeter varieties, a fact that Murphy takes into account with his beginning lineup. Another popular movement is wine in a can, perhaps allowing connoisseurs to find solidarity among their beer-drinking companions.

With these factors in mind, Murphy said he’s confident that the Big Sky State and its residents will embrace the fledgling industry.

“Montana is next,” he said.